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March 11, 2020 11:30 am
Why women feel pressured to shave
Updated 3rd March 2020
Credit: George Pimentel/WireImage/Getty Images
Why women feel pressured to shave
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CNN Style has launched a dedicated Beauty section. Read more Beauty stories here.
Type "When did women start..." into Google and one of the top autocomplete suggestions to pop up is, "When did women start shaving?"
The answer goes back centuries. Hair removal -- or otherwise -- has long shaped gender dynamics, served as a signifier of class and defined notions of femininity and the "ideal body."
However, in its most recent evolution, body hair is being embraced by a growing number of young women who are turning a source of societal shame and turning it into a sign of personal strength.
The rise of gender fluidity, the body-positivity movement, and the beauty sector's growing inclusiveness have all contributed to the new wave of hirsuteness.
"It's been deeply stigmatized -- it still is -- and cast with shame," said Heather Widdows, professor of global ethics at the UK's University of Birmingham and author of "Perfect Me: Beauty as an Ethical Ideal," in a phone interview. "Its removal is one of the few aesthetic traditions that have gone from being a beauty routine to a hygienic one.
"Today, most women feel like they have to shave. Like they have no other option. There's something deeply fraught about that -- though perceptions are slowly changing."
From ancient Egypt to Darwin
A young woman undergoing hair-removal at the Beatiderm Institute of Electrolysis in New York on November 4, 1938. Credit: Keystone-France/Gamma-Keystone/Getty Images
Hairlessness wasn't established as a mandate for women until the early 20th century.
Before that, removing body hair was something both men and women did -- as far back as the Stone Age, then through ancient Egypt, Greece and the Roman Empire -- using seashells, beeswax, and various other depilatories. In these earlier eras, as Victoria Sherrow writes in "Encyclopedia of Hair: A Cultural History," hairlessness was seen mostly as a way to keep the body clean. Ancient Romans also associated it with class: The smoother your skin was, the purer and more superior you were.
In the Middle East, as well as East and South Asia, threading was used on the entire face. But unibrows were actually considered alluring for both sexes and were often accentuated with kohl.
Threading -- which removes facial hair -- has long been a traditional beauty procedure, as seen in this picture at a Taipei night market. A thin thread is doubled, then twisted and rolled over areas of unwanted hair, plucking the hair at the follicle level. Credit: Yeung Kwan//LightRocket/Getty Images
In Persia, hair removal and brow-shaping was a marker of adulthood and marriage for women and was mainly reserved for that occasion. While in China, body hair was long considered normal, and even today woman face far less social pressure to shave.
The same goes for other countries in Asia: While hair removal has become routine for many of the continent's young women, waxing or trimming pubic hair, for instance, isn't as common as it is in the West.
In fact, in Korea, pubic hair was long considered a sign of fertility and sexual health -- so much so that, in the mid-2010s, it was reported that some Korean women were undergoing pubic hair transplants, to add extra hair to their own.
Europeans weren't always obsessed with hair-free skin.
In the Middle Ages, good Catholic women were expected to let their hair grow as a display of femininity while keeping it concealed in public. The face was the only place where hair was considered unsightly: 14th-century ladies would pluck the hair from their foreheads in order to push back their hairlines and give their faces a more oval appearance. When Elizabeth I came to power in 1558, she made eyebrow removal fashionable.
By the late 18th century, hair removal still wasn't considered essential by European and American women, although when the first safety razor for men was invented by French barber Jacques Perret in 1760, some women reportedly used them too.
It wasn't until the late 1800s that women on both sides of the Atlantic started making hair removal an integral part of their beauty routines. The modern-day notion of body hair being unwomanly can be traced back to Charles Darwin's 1871 book "Descent of a Man," according to Rebecca Herzig's "Plucked: A History of Hair Removal."
In Paris, a patient undergoes a hair removal session using an Alexandrite laser. Credit: BSIP/Universal Images Group/Getty Images
Darwin's theory of natural selection associated body hair with "primitive ancestry and an atavistic return to earlier, 'less developed' forms," wrote Herzig, a professor of gender and sexuality studies at Bates College in Maine. Conversely, having less body hair, the English naturalist suggested, was a sign of being more evolved and sexually attractive.
As Darwin's ideas became popularized, other 19th-century medical and scientific experts began linking hairiness to "sexual inversion, disease pathology, lunacy, and criminal violence," Herzig continued. Interestingly, those connotations were applied mostly to women's body hair, not men's -- not just because of evolutionary arguments but also, the author pointed out, the enforcement of "gendered social control" on women's rising role in society. Making women think they had to be hairless to be considered worthy of attention was a heteronormative way of controlling their bodies -- and, inherently, their selves -- through shame, Widdows explained.
By the early 1900s, upper- and middle-class white America increasingly saw smooth skin as a marker of femininity, and female body hair as disgusting, with its removal offering "a way to separate oneself from cruder people, lower class and immigrant," Herzig wrote.
A female 'necessity'
In the first decades of the 20th century, changing fashions -- sleeveless dresses exposing the skin -- further popularized body hair removal in the US.
In 1915, Harper's Bazaar was the first women's magazine to run a campaign dedicated to the removal of underarm hair ("a necessity," as it was described). That same year, men's shaving company Gillette launched the first razor marketed specifically for women, the Milady Décolletée. Its advert read, "A beautiful addition to Milady's toilet table -- and one that solves an embarrassing personal problem."
The shorter hemlines of the 1930s and '40s, and a shortage of nylon stockings during World War II meant more and more American women began shaving their legs, too. The introduction of the bikini in the US in 1946 also led shaving companies and female consumers to focus on the trimming and shaping of their nether regions.
Italian actress Sophia Loren, wearing a white embroidered dress, posing for the photographer in Venice, 1955. Credit: Archivio Cameraphoto Epoche/Getty Images
In the 1950s, as Playboy hit the newsstands (its first issue came out in 1953), clean-shaven, lingerie-touting women set a new standard of sexiness. By 1964, 98% of American women aged 15 to 44 were regularly shaving their legs. Wax strips and the first laser hair removal also debuted around then, though the latter was quickly abandoned for its damaging effects on the skin before being reintroduced decades later.
"And yet shaving was far from being as extreme as it is today," Widdows said. "In the late 1960s and 1970s, full bushes were not at all uncommon, even in Playboy. Around that time you also had the second wave of feminism and the spread of hippie culture, both of which rejected hairless bodies. For a lot of women, body hair was symbol of their fight for equality. It wasn't seen as unnatural -- not yet."
That shift, Widdows said, kicked off in the following decades, with the rising popularity of waxing, pornography and increasingly explicit pop culture. In 1987, seven sisters from Brazil (known as the J Sisters) opened a salon in New York City offering the so-called "Brazilian" -- a complete wax hair removal of the genital region. Celebrities like Gwyneth Paltrow and Naomi Campbell started doing it. The masses followed suit.
"Removing body hair went from being 'expected' to the norm," Widdows explained. "Being hairless has come to be seen as the only 'natural' and clean way to present the body. Except it really isn't.
Related video from CNN Beauty: The evolution of red lipstick
With advertising and media further promoting the ideal of hair-free bodies, the idea that female hair is gross has only grown. In turn, methods to achieve hairlessness have become more precise: The last four decades have seen the ascent of electrolysis, pulsed light, and more advanced laser technology.
"Anything associated with the 'abject' -- what we expel from our cultural worlds in order to define ourselves -- arouses disgust, shame and hostility almost by definition," Herzig told CNN in an email. "Visible female body hair certainly tends to be treated as abject today. It's worth noting that those are ideas about cleanliness, contingent social norms, rather than about actually removing 'dirt.' Most hair removal practices tend to introduce new opportunities for abrasion and infection."
Embracing hairiness
In 2008, Breanne Fahs, professor of women and gender studies at Arizona State University, set female students an assignment to grow their body hair and write a paper reflecting on the experience. Fahs later extended the assignment to include the course's men, who were asked to shave their legs. The project still runs today.
Mexican artist Frida Kahlo boasted a unibrow. Credit: Everett/Shutterstock
"The assignment has spotlighted the cultural inevitability of female hair removal," Fahs said in a phone interview. "Over the years, those who have taken part in it have shared quite consistent issues: a deep sense of shame, struggle with self-confidence, even social ostracism.
"There have also been cases of heterosexism and homophobia -- this idea that growing your leg hair automatically implies you're queer or shaving it means you're a gay man. Women often don't realize how much society, family and friends weigh in on what we do with our bodies. And how much of what we think is a choice -- that 'I choose to shave' -- has actually been imparted to and enforced upon us for generations."
But Fahs also saw feelings of empowerment, rebellion, and anger stirring from the project. "Particularly in the last two years, in the wake of the election and the #MeToo movement -- there's been a deeper awareness of the restrictions surrounding women's bodies, of feminism, gender and sexuality, and a willingness to push back against it all, or at least break out of the comfort zone," she said.
It's not just Fahs' students.
A new cohort of young women is embracing body hair, especially on Instagram. The phenomenon has also made it into magazines. In the September issue of Harper's Bazaar, actress Emily Ratajkowski posed with unshaven underarms (a full 360-degree turn for the publication since its early anti-armpit hair messages). YouTuber Ingrid Nilsen and musician Halsey have also showed off their body hair.
Newly launched women's shaving brands are also making a case for female fuzz and encouraging positive conversations around the topic. The Flamingo razor, from the popular grooming line Harry's, emphasizes the right to choose whether to shave with ad slogans like "No Waxation Without Representation" and "We Are Grow Choice."Direct-to-consumer razor start-up Billie, established in 2017, is another company that's marketing the idea of choice. Rather than showing the perfectly smooth models typical of female shaving ads, its campaigns depicted diverse groups of women shaving, combing their wispy underarm locks or lying on the beach in bikinis with varying levels of hairiness.
"For so long, advertising has only reinforced the taboo around the subject," said Billie co-founder Georgina Gooley in a phone interview. "We wanted to actually acknowledge that women have body hair, show it, and say that shaving is a choice. If you want to keep your body hair, we celebrate that. And if you want to remove it, that's fine as well."
Photographer Ashley Armitage, who worked on the Billie campaigns and artfully depicts body hair on her Instagram account, agrees. "Body hair is a personal choice," she wrote in an email. "Shaving it, waxing it, or growing it are all valid options, and all up to the individual."
"I think more women are realizing how body hair is deeply connected to gender and power," said Fahs. "The emotional nature of what body hair elicits in people has tremendous potential as a tool for activism and social change."
Top image: Lady Gaga performs at the 22nd Annual MuchMusic Video Awards in Toronto, Canada on June 19, 2011
March 13, 2020 9:18 am
I feel like as the body positive movement developed, and also with age, women have been offered more information on hair removal techniques that are way less damaging to the skin than shaving with a razor. While reading, I wondered why I chose to continue removing body hair and I just cant really remember not wanting to- from a relatively young age. I personally just feel better I suppose.
Lindsey Cogan and Lindsey Cogan reacted
March 16, 2020 12:15 pm
@francescablackiectskin-com I agree about never not wanting to remove hair. I think at an early age we see women with these perfectly hairless legs and underarms. Then we start growing hair ourselves and are told that we cannot remove it until a certain age. Being told that we are unable to remove this new and very unwanted hair makes the removal even more appealing. I remember counting down the days. I was allowed to use Nail. It smelled oh so terrible but in minutes, that hair that I despised so much was gone. I felt relief. I felt more feminine. I felt me again.
Topic starter
March 17, 2020 9:05 am
I do not enjoy having underarm hair or lots of bikini hair. Hair is meant to be on the body for a reason but on me, it is too much so I shave or wax. If women don't want to remove hair that's their choice. I was teased in 7th grade about my hairy legs so I went home one day and used my moms' electric shaver. I loved the way my legs looked and felt.
I now try to get waxed as the hair does not come back as fast. As long as we take precautions by using an antiseptic before and after I see no reason I would stop.
Methods used a very long time ago is evidence that people did not want hair either
March 17, 2020 12:07 pm
I don't think there is anything wrong with women who don't want to shave. I know it has to do with breaking the stereotype of "women shouldn't be hairy" thing which is cool I get it, but for me personally I am italian so I have very thick dark hair and I remember from a really young age like elementary school I wanted to get rid of it due to bullying. A lot of kids would see my arms and legs if I wore shorts or short sleeves they would call me ridiculous names because of how hairy I was. I would beg my mom to let me shave, she finally gave in when I was about 12. Once I started shaving my legs my confidence went up so high! I then started shaving my arms too. My personal reasoning is more of I shave because for one, I feel so much better about myself, and two I almost feel cleaner in a way. But I give props to the females who give the finger to men and the stereotypical standards of women and body hair.
September 2, 2020 3:59 pm
I personally dislike the feeling of when i haven't shaved in a while. There is nothing better than getting into a bed with fresh sheets and newly shaved legs! I also think women are more attractive when they aren't hairy, but if you don't want to shave, there should be no shame to it. Men can be hairy, or they can shave and nobody thinks twice either way. It should be the same for women.
September 2, 2020 3:59 pm
I personally dislike the feeling of when i haven't shaved in a while. There is nothing better than getting into a bed with fresh sheets and newly shaved legs! I also think women are more attractive when they aren't hairy, but if you don't want to shave, there should be no shame to it. Men can be hairy, or they can shave and nobody thinks twice either way. It should be the same for women.
February 10, 2021 4:22 pm
It's completely up to the person whether or not they want their hair removed or not. I personally want to be smooth and hairless. I used to get my eyebrows threaded and it was ok at first but I just realized I like to do it myself with tweezers. I also have no problem with shaving, I like it. My boyfriend doesn't mind if I don't but I just personally feel cleaner and more confident when I have smooth hairless legs
February 10, 2021 4:24 pm
I don't like having hair on my legs either. If I'm wearing yoga pants and my leg hair is long enough, it can snag on my hairs and it doesn't feel great.
October 1, 2021 12:53 pm
Growing up I was not allowed to shave until I turned about 11. Hair on my legs and under arms was not something I necessarily liked or enjoyed. It was something I wanted to do even more when I noticed my friends doing it and talking about it. I personally prefer to have my body shaved and mostly hairless. It makes me feel comfortable and if it makes others feel more comfortable not to shave than of course that is ok too. Its all dependent on the person and what they prefer.
October 2, 2021 8:21 pm
I personally enjoy feeling silky smooth and basically hairless. You know that feeling when your get into clean sheets with freshly shaven legs? 10/10. Society used to make remarks to women who didnt shave , but throughout the past couple of years the promotion of body positivity has had a positive effect of the body hair movement. I remember as a little girl before i even had leg hair i used to put on my moms shaving cream and pretend to shave my legs with the shaving cream cap haha. Overall i believe it is a matter of personal choice.
October 2, 2021 8:22 pm
@sydneymissaleiectskin-com I completely agree that it depends on the person. Shaving can be annoying and time consuming so i can see why people just choose not to do it at all , but when i actually take the time for a little "self care" its totally worth it in my opinion.
October 2, 2021 8:25 pm
@lindseycoganiectskin-com I always feel relieved when i'm all silky smooth and freshly shaven so i totally get it. However im not the type to freak out about a little hair if im going to the beach or pool etc. I could really careless if i have long leg hair, but i do enjoy feeling fresh ad smooth.
October 21, 2021 4:33 pm
I don't like how hair looks on myself, but if other women feel comfortable with not shaving then I am all for it. I don't see the big deal with having hair. People feel like if a women has hair on their body they have horrible hygiene or they smell, but in reality that's not true at all.
October 21, 2021 4:35 pm
@noracrainiectskin-com I totally agree with you. Having freshly shaved legs in bed is the best feeling in the world.
April 6, 2022 2:38 pm
I know that some women like to have hair on their body while others dont. Personally I prefer to not have hair because I seem to itch more and I sweat alot. To me nothing is better than freshly shaved legs and clean sheets on the bed combo. I only shave my legs when the hair becomes to visible for everything else I wait about 2-3 weeks. Shaving is soo time consuming.
April 6, 2022 4:57 pm
@keyonnastarksiectskin-com I agree when women have alot hair on their bodys society wants to shame them but for men it is okay. Im with you, i personally dont like having hair on my body either.
April 6, 2022 4:59 pm
@sydneymissaleiectskin-com I also didnt start shaving until 11 or 12. It was something my friends at the time were saying they do so it seemed "cool" but now it feels like so much work to me.
April 9, 2022 2:31 pm
Although I hate having to go through the process of shaving, I don't know if I would ever stop. I don't shave everyday but I do a couple times a week, and I just like the way my legs feel after I do. I don't think there is anything wrong with not removing hair, everyone has their own preference.
April 9, 2022 2:33 pm
@camiryndavisiectskin-com Freshly clean sheets and shaved legs is the best feeling ever. I do shave my underarms everyday or every other day. I also hate the way your leg hair feels when its starting to grow back and you wear jeans or pants.
April 9, 2022 2:37 pm
@sydneymissaleiectskin-com My best friend growing up was able to shave before I was and I remember her hyping it up. I wasn't able to shave until 6th or 7th grade. I used to be so precise with it and not miss a spot. Now I always miss spots. It does seem like much of a chore but I don't think I would ever not shave.
April 9, 2022 7:04 pm
I think shaving or removing is obviously your own choice. People now a days i feel like shave or have no hair. I personally shave because it makes me feel cleaner.
April 9, 2022 7:06 pm
@camiryndavisiectskin-com I agree. Honestly i hate shaving my legs but i do it when it needs to be done. Getting in the bed with clean sheets and a clean body does hit different.
April 9, 2022 7:08 pm
@keyonnastarksiectskin-com Having hair is normal. Growing your hair out is not gross its normal and if some women want that good for them. I dont like how men treat women differetly if there not shaved. Some men dont shave and we dont find it gross.
April 10, 2022 7:12 pm
Women grow hair for a reason so the stereotype that women need to be hairless doesn't make sense to me. I think it should be a personal preference and men should just deal with it. It's a lot of work to keep up with waxing and shaving to keep up with being hairless! If my man makes a comment on my legs being hairy I tell him he can pay for them to be waxed or he can do it for me lol
April 10, 2022 7:14 pm
@cameranriddleiectskin-com I agree I think that removing hair is a personal choice that should not be judged. I also agree with you that when I shave my legs I feel so much better!
April 13, 2022 6:08 pm
I feel, to each woman their own. I think thats how the saying goes. BAsically, if a woman doesnt want to shave, it does not bother me in the slightest. For me personally, i used to shave everyday. The little stubbles would itch and feel uncomfortable. However, ever since i switched to waxing everything except my legs, when it starts to grow back, i barely notice. its so much more maintainable. Even my legs, i have stopped shaving as much and the hair does not grow back as quickly anymore.
October 7, 2022 2:47 am
I love that in recent years the body positivity movement has lessened the pressure on women to shave their body hair, but I believe there is still a stigma there. I've seen a lot of people get online hate for things as simple as having hair where it naturally grows and I think that's really sad. People should be allowed to do what they want with their own bodies, and as long as they aren't doing something to harm themselves or others, other people's negative opinions should be kept to themselves.
October 7, 2022 2:58 am
@laurenjohnsoniectskin-com I agree that the stereotype that women should be hairless doesn't make sense. Women naturally grow hair and this is an impossible standard. Being hairless is a lot of time and effort spent and if someone doesn't want to put in the energy for it, it shouldn't be counted against them.
October 7, 2022 3:17 am
@abigailcochraneiectskin-com Getting into bed with freshly shaved legs is definitely the best feeling in the world! Most of the time, I try to line up when I shave my legs with the day I change my sheets. My personal preference is also to have my body shaved, because of how soft my skin feels afterwards, but I also feel like it's no big deal if I haven't shaved and my hair is showing.
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