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February 1, 2020 7:10 pm
The beauty industry is bigger than ever, but mascara is struggling
Rihanna's Fenty Beauty line, which she launched in 2017, didn't sell mascara when it first launched, but she recently added the beauty product to the line. Lady Gaga's beauty line also doesn't include mascara.
Mascara, the long-standing staple of makeup, is becoming less relevant to today's beauty rituals.
"Mascara isn't dead, but yes, it's definitely taken a back seat," said New York-based celebrity makeup artist Randall Mahnke-Tang, who has worked with Aretha Franklin and Hugh Jackman.
Sales of false lashes are up 82% since 2016.
It's not as if women have suddenly stopped craving long, luscious lashes. They're just gravitating toward another option to get them.
"It's all about false lashes and lash extensions now. Celebrities love them, but even the girl at the grocery store checkout is wearing a full set of lashes every day," said Mahnke-Tang.
Do-it-yourself false lashes that are made to be glued to the lash line, are available at most drug stores for less than $10. "You can wear these every day or for a few days," he said.
Lash extensions stay on much longer, but the process requires a technician to attach each extension on top of the natural lash.
"The cost is upward of $100 and the upkeep is an investment too," said Mahnke-Te. "They can last four to six weeks. You can swim with them, do hot yoga, go to the beach and not worry -- unlike with mascara -- about anything running down your face. Their convenience can't be beat."
It's this convenience over cost that's fueled a sharp jump in false lash sales and sprouted a string of lash extension salons.
Sales of false lashes (and related products such as kits, glue and applicator) have surged 82% since 2016 to bring in $313 million in annual sales in 2019, according to Nielsen. Unit sales of false lashes and related products have jumped 39% in that period.
Women have worn mascara since the 1800s when the beauty product's formula was based on ingredients like Petroleum jelly, black shoe polish and even coal dust, according to Beryl Barnard, director of the International Makeup Association. "The first nontoxic mascara was packaged in 1913 by [French chemist] Eugene Rimmel and it took off. In the United States, Hollywood was a great influence on mascara's popularity."
More recently, mascara's popularity appears to be waning. Even though it's a much bigger revenue generator, mascara sales have dropped 7% since 2016 from $916 million to $851 million in 2019. Unit sales of mascara have fallen 15% over that period.
More women are skipping mascara for longer-lasting alternatives like lash extensions.
Looking at cosmetics sales just in department and beauty specialty stores, mascara sales are also down 5% year-to-date through November to over $500 million while false eyelash sales were up 15% in that same period to $66 million, according to NPD Group.
"When you wear false lashes or lash extensions, you really don't need to use mascara," said Mahnke-Tang.
Clare Hennigan, senior beauty analyst with market intelligence firm Mintel, said she's also noticing dipping mascara sales. "Mascara is still the most used color cosmetic product. But we have seen a stagnation in mascara sales as false lashes become very popular," she said.
"There's a two-part story to this," said Hennigan. "Millennial consumers are embracing false lashes because they want their look to be Instagram ready." On the other end, she said younger consumers are preferring a low-maintenance, no-hassle look. They're picking false lashes over applying and removing mascara every day. Some are forgoing mascara completely as they prioritize skincare over makeup.
"This is an opportunity for mascara brands to stay ahead of the curve and better compete against these trends," she said.
Coty Inc., which owns a number of international consumer beauty brands including CoverGirl mascaras, and L'Oreal, which owns popular drugstore mascara brand Maybelline, declined to comment for the story.
Is the Kardashian glam effect helping or hurting mascara?
False lashes aren't a new invention. They've been around forever, popularized by Hollywood celebrities through the decades like Marilyn Monroe, Jennifer Lopez and Kim Kardashian.
"Lash extensions are a more recent trend which came to us from Asia about 20 years ago," said Heather Elrod, CEO of the Amazing Lash Studio, which provides lash extension services nationwide through its franchised locations.
Lash extensions can last 4-6 weeks.
Hollywood popularized the look first before it went to the masses, said Elrod. "Extensions were also extremely expensive initially, costing over $400 to get them," she said.
The cost of lash extensions has since come down to about $100, making the beauty service more accessible and popular.
The Amazing Lash Studio opened its first salon in 2010. It now has 250 locations. "We're opening 2 to 10 locations a month," said Elrod. "That's how much demand there is for extensions."
The clientele, ranging from age 18 to 65, pays about $90 for a full set of lash extensions. Customers have to come in for upkeep every two to three weeks (at an additional cost) if they want to maintain their extensions.
"The median age of women who come to us is 39 and the fastest growing segment is women over 45," she said. "Women tell us it extensions makes them feel more confident and beautiful."
Some of the younger customers specifically ask for a Kardashian-inspired look. The Kardashian sisters are rarely seen on Instagram or in public without glamorous makeup that's designed to play up their eyes with false lashes.
Beauty industry influencer and celebrity makeup artist Mario Dedivanovic should know. Dedivanovic, who has an Instagram account with 7.4 million followers, is Kim Kardashian's go-to makeup artist.
"Kim is one of the biggest beauty influencers in the world. She's one of the most looked-at people and women do take their makeup inspiration from her," said Dedivanovic, adding that he routinely uses false lashes to create her Instagram-ready looks.
He's still a fan of mascara even though he admits that more women are regularly getting extensions. "Mascara will never die but lash extensions are just an easier lifestyle choice for women right now. My own sister gets lash extensions and you're not supposed to use mascara with them," he said.
Women are also gravitating towards "lash tinting," he said. It involves dying the natural lash a darker color, thereby eliminating the need to use mascara to get the same effect.
Elrod feels confident that the move away from mascara isn't just a fad.
"Studies show that more than 90% of women have still never tried extensions," she said. "This service is still in the early stages. I think what you will see going forward is women continuing to replace mascara with other options."
Topic starter
February 1, 2020 7:19 pm
I love the look of some false lashes. I have not worn lashes very much but I see the reason people love them. All lashes and glue are not equal. Things that bother me are people not licensed to apply lashes and inferior quality of applying them. People have to have training. People who have taken the time to get licensed are being shortchanged by the people who have not. There are licenses for a reason. I have seen clients in nail salons taking their own lashes off because the person who they have an appointment with doesn't feel like doing it. The lady was just pulling off the individual lashes. A lot of people ruin their lashes and pull them out and in some cases, they do not grow back.
Its too bad mascara has taken the hit in the industry. I remember when a person would not think of leaving their home without it.
February 5, 2020 2:58 pm
I was never one to purchase a tube of mascara that was over $10, I think anything over that is too expensive. I wear mascara mostly on a daily basis, but i'm pretty good with making it last me months. Although I will say recently, over the last few years I started doing my own eyelash extensions, and just wearing strip lashes. I just love the dramatic look they give, you also don't have to wear mascara on top of them. I personally like doing the eyelash extensions on myself more than to just keep reapplying strip lashes but if i'm going out with friends i'll just throw on a pair of strip lashes. I have seen mascara tubes that have been over $20 for a small size, to me that is ridiculous, in my opinion I think it'd be better to invest your money in eyelash extensions or lift than to keep buying those mascara tubes that claim to make your eyelashes look longer and fuller especially when the tube is over $20.
February 10, 2020 8:32 pm
Very interesting. I wonder how subscription services like ipsy play a role in the decrease. I haven't purchased a mascara in years because of ipsy. They keep me in constant supply. I'm not sure if the companies supplying the samples get a profit, but at $13 a month there isn't much to go around. I would love to try lash extensions. I've tried to apply them myself but the need to blink is too strong so i've never done a full set.
February 10, 2020 8:34 pm
@gabriellemrasiectskin-com I have such a hard time with band lashes. You'll have to show me what I'm doing wrong.
February 13, 2020 3:46 pm
I have used band lashes for years and I kind of prefer them to getting extentions because I don't have two hours to spend getting them done and it can be very expensive. I do think the extentions are beautiful though I loved when I had them but it just wasn't for me. I still use mascara every time I wear make up. I don't buy it very often. I think mascara sells could of gone done because they don't give that dramatic look people want. They should improve their product and make a mascara that can be used with lashes. I was recently given mac mascara I think its 3d something but it is amazing but I do think it's mostly the wand.
February 13, 2020 3:48 pm
Now days, Instagram wins, and brings a lot of influence to people in this generation. The stars are a prime example of young people that are following them, and emulating their looks. Some people who wear false lashes, in my opinion, may want to look better in the mirror. Some of the applications aren't exactly enhancing their appearance. There are many choices now, and they are affordable too, so that's good. I'd like to keep those lashes for more special occasions, and be more natural. Extensions are great, but, in my opinion way to costly, and takes to much time to keep up. One thing people can do replacing mascara is have a tint applied to the lashes.
August 15, 2022 1:47 pm
I'm honestly too lazy to get eyelash extensions done because it's time consuming. On the days I want my eyeslashes to look long and full I just wear a-lot of mascara because i'm also too lazy to apply my own false lashes ?
August 15, 2022 2:03 pm
@angierodrigueziectskin-com I agree I think that some of the fake lashes look ridiculous when they should be enhancing features and the eyes.
August 15, 2022 2:21 pm
I love wearing falsies to give me a dramatic look, i can take them on and off when i want to and not worry about extensions ruining my natural lashes. Additionally the prices lash techs are charging these days for a full set of lashes is around $200+ and the maintenance on them especially if you wear makeup regularly or have oily skin is getting a fill every 2-3 weeks, which is about $100.
August 15, 2022 2:22 pm
@laurenjohnsoniectskin-com Youre not wrong about them being time consuming, they take about 2 hours to be applied for a full set and probably an hour for a fill.
August 16, 2022 2:03 pm
Yes, I see them as an extension of the eye enhancement. I see some that look like thick spiders and they look just awful and does not do anything for the look of the person. I like tabs as you can place them in certain areas
August 16, 2022 2:05 pm
The prices are very high and if the person is not educated in the skin and lashes growth stages you can end up having your lashes fall out of if the glue irritates the skin then there is another issue
August 16, 2022 6:03 pm
@deborahwatersiectskin-com I do think that some of the dramatic lashes look really pretty but some of them are ridiculous!
August 23, 2022 5:17 pm
I have recently fallen in love with false eyelashes. They give me an entirely different look and I feel more confident with them on. They are so easy to put on and take off and they are more affordable than getting individual eyelash extensions. I get my favorite pair of false lashes, cut them into four pieces, then place them underneath my lash line instead of on top of my lash line to give it the lash extension look.
August 23, 2022 5:20 pm
@abigailcochraneiectskin-com yeah, individual lash extensions are ridiculously high and I am not willing to pay for them ?
August 29, 2022 7:35 pm
Ive never put on false lashes my self cause i could never figure it out. Ive have gotten eyelash extensions one time but wont again probably. They are too much money and they ruined my eyelashes. I liked like i didnt have to wear mascara.
August 29, 2022 7:38 pm
@abigailcochraneiectskin-com Yea thats the reason i dont get them way to expensive and when i took them off i had no real lashes left.
August 30, 2022 4:41 pm
I started getting lash extensions because I didn't want to wear mascara. I would go every 2-3 weeks to get a fill and absolutely loved them. They did start to take a toll on my natural lashes. I wear mascara sometimes but I honestly dont want to deal with taking it off. I also don't want to spend $30+ on mascara.
August 30, 2022 4:43 pm
@abigailcochraneiectskin-com There isn't many people who do lash extensions on the outer banks where I am from and the girl only charged 80 for a full set and 45 for fill ins. She was also go easy I would fall asleep getting them done.
August 30, 2022 4:45 pm
@gabriellemrasiectskin-com I agree with you about spending that much on mascara. Where I use to get my lash extensions a fill in was only $45 and for that no mascara look and I didn't have to deal with taking the mascara off or it flaking.
September 8, 2022 6:51 pm
I've always worn mascara religiously, because my lashes are very light. They don't hold a curl very well, so I've spent a lot of money on brand name mascara in hopes of better results, but I've never been able to tell a huge difference in a $7 mascara and a $30 mascara.
September 8, 2022 6:53 pm
I've always worn mascara religiously, because my lashes are very light. They don't hold a curl very well, so I've spent a lot of money on brand name mascara in hopes of better results, but I've never been able to tell a huge difference in a $7 mascara and a $30 mascara.
September 8, 2022 6:57 pm
@paigebrickhouseiectskin-com I haven't tried lash extensions, because I've heard about the toll it takes on your natural lashes, and I don't really have the lashes to spare. I'm glad to hear you had a good experience with them.
September 8, 2022 7:00 pm
@paigebrickhouseiectskin-com I haven't tried lash extensions, because I've heard about the toll it takes on your natural lashes, and I don't really have the lashes to spare. I'm glad to hear you had a good experience with them.
September 8, 2022 7:03 pm
@keyonnastarksiectskin-com I've never tried to apply false eyelashes that way, but I think I''l definitely try. Whenever I put them on the normal way, the sides always come up within a few hours.
September 8, 2022 7:07 pm
@keyonnastarksiectskin-com I've never tried to apply false eyelashes that way, but I think I''l definitely try. Whenever I put them on the normal way, the sides always come up within a few hours.
October 25, 2022 1:07 pm
I have been wearing false lashes avidly for about 4 years now and I love them. They work for me because I use the liner method with my glue to apply them, so they last me a few days. Sometimes though, I find my eyelashes look a little sparse or damaged, so I'll take a break from them. When I don't wear strip lashes, I wear mascara. I'm definitely not a mascara snob, I normally spend around $5-$8 on my mascara. I love a natural look sometimes, but I personally think I have "baby eyes" so I like to dramatize them with lashes.
October 29, 2022 10:07 pm
Ive always been wearing mascara because my lashes are light colored and they stand out when i wear it.
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